Saturday, January 20, 2018

Wool Boucle Finishing Report

All four of the shawls are now wet finished and pressed and measured. Here's a table showing the shrinkage results:

As I suspected, the shrinkage was least in the plainweave shawl. When the threads have less room to move, they have less chance to shrink. Otherwise, because the boucle was used as weft, and the nylon strand around which the wool strand looped wasn't very shrinky, the structure didn't have much effect on the shrinkage rate. The warp yarns are all worsted spun, and less apt to shrink than woolen spun; plus many of them are treated to resist shrinkage.

In general, I like the versions woven in broken twill and a crepe with shorter floats best, so that's probably what I'll use in the upcoming boucle pieces. I have a teal green yarn, and a rust red yarn from the same supplier (Textura Trading, no longer in business). The yarn was originally spun by Baruffa, one of the top Italian mills. There are cones of coordinating plain 2-ply yarn in the stash to use as warp for both boucles.

Even after finishing, the cloth is very open and sheer. The boucle causes lots of distortion in the cloth, an effect I like. As I recall, each shawl weighs just under 6 ounces.

Be sure to click the thumbnail to see the larger image.

Sunday, January 14, 2018

Sneak Peek

Here's a quick look at a jacquard project that's my focus this week.

The warp (as always) is black, and the wefts are pale lavendar, pale blue, mid blue, and black. I wanted the lines separating the color areas to stand out more, so in those areas it's mostly black weft on black warp showing. The black weft covers up most of the light-colored pixels that show through in those narrow dividing lines.

More later...

In other news, two of the blue boucle shawls have been wet-finished and pressed. They attended the Central Coast Weavers Guild meeting as show & tell, and were duly admired. The last two on that warp will have to wait a few days before I can finish them.

Weave on!

Sunday, January 07, 2018

Wow! Things Happen Fast Around Here!

The Resident Engineer is fast! The new disk drive came a day early (on a Sunday, thank you Amazon!), and the "dead" system disk cooperated and allowed DH to copy it to the new disk, a full backup has been made, and I'm back in touch with Windows and all my files and applications. Hooray!

The warp and the dobby loom also cooperated, and the last wool boucle piece has been woven and the warp cut off the loom. Here it is, four featherweight shawls heaped on the ironing board:

Tomorrow, I'll do any mending required, and begin gently wet finishing and pressing the shawls. I'll be interested to see whether the difference in weave structures makes a significant difference in post-wet-finishing size.

Last of the Wool Boucle Shawls

The last piece on the warp is also a crepe. This one has floats no longer than 2 in the weft, and no longer than 3 in the warp. It's based on Oelsner #840. The original is a 10-shaft draft, but I pasted 4 copies of it into a 20x20 tieup space, then rotated, flipped, and wrapped the whole thing until it worked well with the selvedge threads.

I would post a picture of the draft, but the system drive on my desktop computer has died, and until DH fixes it, I can't get to the image. The repair job can't begin until a replacement drive arrives tomorrow, and will take a couple of days. The dead drive was brand new, and hadn't a chance for the backup server to create a backup before the disk died, so DH has to build it from scratch, all over again. Including applications.

Modern technology: ain't it wonderful....

Monday, December 18, 2017

This Crepe's For You, Alice

Oelsner #943, with loom-controlled floating selvedge added on shafts 21 and 22. I intended to use Oelsner #840, but I coulldn't get it to play nice with the selvedge.

And on the loom:
And in closeup:
This weave pattern has a little more breathing room than the broken twill, so looks a bit more open and will probably have more shrinkage than the broken twill during wet finishing.

Sunday, December 17, 2017

A Last-Minute Gift

This mobile phone pouch is for a friend who may join us for Christmas Eve:

There will be another one in this cloth (but cut from another area, so with a different blend of violet and pink), but it isn't ready for prime-time yet. The lining and strap still need to be sewn into the pouch. That probably won't happen until after the holidays. I'll post it on the sales blog when it is completed.

Thursday, December 14, 2017

Twill It Is

By dinnertime, I finished weaving shawl #2, using the broken twill from the previous post.

And in extreme closeup:

The cloth is slightly more open than the plain weave version, because although each individual warp end is doing the two-up, two-down dance, the weft alternates between over-two, under-two on even picks, and over-one, under-one on odd picks. If the tieup were rotated 90 degrees, the warp and weft would trade dance steps.

The twill version feels much less crisp than the plainweave piece because it has a little more breathing room. I'm wondering how much difference there will be after wet finishing!

Next up, a crepe version. Stay tuned.